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Bookbinding • View topic - Skive Knife Blades
Page 1 of 1

Skive Knife Blades

PostPosted: Tue Dec 04, 2007 2:45 pm
by kitekook

PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:17 pm
by bobstelmack

Re: Skive Knife Blades

PostPosted: Wed Dec 05, 2007 12:44 pm
by aaronsalik

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 10:17 am
by kitekook
Thanks to both Bob and Aaron.

The bulk pack of blades at Bob's link should last me a long time to come as I'll use that skiver even after I've saved up enough and buy a Scharfix and knives, which has been my intention. It's just taking me a while to build up my shop with everything I want.

Aaron, are the Peachy knives worth so much more than the other knives that Talas offers? Why?
Dan

PostPosted: Fri Dec 07, 2007 12:56 pm
by benjclark

Bookbinding Knives

PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2007 7:21 am
by aaronsalik

PARING KNIVES::

PostPosted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 8:55 am
by MichaelChrisman
The finest paring knives I have ever encountered are the ones sold by TREVOR LLOYD at::

These knives are exceptionally well made from high quality "hunting knife steel" (I believe it's D-2 grade), only $55.00, plus post, and they hold an edge unbelievably well. I've had mine for over ten years. This is not to negate others knives, but Trevor's are simply the best! And they have beautiful hardwood handles as well. A student of mine from Toronto struggled much with leather paring until they bought a Trevor Lloyd knife. They come in both right and left-handed.

As for sharpening.... The very best approach I have ever found is when the blade becomes dull enough, strop the edge of the knife on very fine sandpaper, typically 320 grit. Taking great care as to the angle you're holding the blade. Then, next, laying the base of the knife dead-flat on the sandpaper, pull toward you on the sandpaper to remove the burr that has been created on the top edge. Be careful NOT to "round-off" the bottom of the edge! Now strop the knife ten or twelve times (BOTH sides of the knife) on a nice piece of bridle leather and it'll be sharp enough to de-hair with ease. Very many years ago this method was called "scary sharp". But it seems to be little known amongst newer binders on the scene today. Very dull knives will require a coarser grit paper at first, then progressing to the finer, and finally to the leather strop. I use the same strop since 1988 (my second one since I was seventeen years old), and have only "dressed" it twice. Both times with simple pumice powder. There is no need to spend money for "cremes" and such like.

Hope this helps!

Michael

Re: Skive Knife Blades

PostPosted: Mon Nov 23, 2009 7:11 am
by bookbum
Thank you, Philip, but I'm not normally in the practice of throwing my knives at my books, although sometime I do feel like doing that when things go wrong.

Actually, I sort of took Arron's advice. I bought a very large set of gouges and other hand tools on ebay (72 in all). Along with that set came 6 different skiving knives (including 2 Peachy). I already had stones from 800 to 6000 grit so I just took the time to learn how to sharpen the knives. Now, it's easy to keep them sharp and there's no leather that stands in my way.

Thanks Arron. I haven't used the "personna" type blades in about 8 month.

Re: Skive Knife Blades

PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2011 11:20 pm
by jeffex

Re: Skive Knife Blades

PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2011 2:29 pm
by bookbum
Yes, that skiver is still for sale on Talas at the above link

Re: Skive Knife Blades

PostPosted: Sun Jun 19, 2011 4:13 pm
by jeffex
OK Thanks for reply


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