Bookbinding

[Bookbinding] Re: Adhesive of choice for assembling a post-bound cover?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (hbquikcomjamesl) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 17:45:49 GMT

Author: hbquikcomjamesl
Post subject: Re: Adhesive of choice for assembling a post-bound cover?
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 1:45 pm

Thanks for getting back to me.

This evening, I had one of those lightbulb moments, and realized that if I matted the picture to the cloth first, using the Pioneer acid-free double-sided mounting tape that's become an old friend, and taking care to seal it on all four sides, then there should be no need to worry about whether the casing-in adhesive will (1) ooze out onto the picture and permanently deface it, or (2) fail to permanently join the cloth to the picture.

The Pioneer tape is one of the very few pressure-sensitive adhesives I've come to trust, and I've now got pieces of scratch paper attached with it to the backs of a sample of Arrestox, and a sample of Dover, and once it's had a chance to develop full strength, I'll see how well it holds.

[Bookbinding] Re: Adhesive of choice for assembling a post-bound cover?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 14:57:52 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Adhesive of choice for assembling a post-bound cover?
Posted: Mon Mar 08, 2010 10:57 am

I'd suggest a mixture, actually. When covering with cloth (any kind) I will put a layer of PVA on my boards and then a thin layer of paste. PVA by itself "grabs" to quickly and gives you very little time to move your boards into the proper position if they land just a little off. Paste by itself takes too long to dry. The two layers give you just enough time to get it into position but don't may you sit there with weights on it all day.

[Bookbinding] Re: Help identifying print tool?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Sherlock) — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 23:47:22 GMT

Author: Sherlock
Post subject: Re: Help identifying print tool?
Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 7:47 pm

Hi,
I had an edwardian/victorian stapler that was virtually identical. The rusted spring was to return the pressure button after stapling the paper.

Regards

Sherlock

[Books] Re: Hand Bookbinding: A Manual of Instruction

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Sherlock) — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 08:42:48 GMT

Author: Sherlock
Post subject: Re: Hand Bookbinding: A Manual of Instruction
Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 4:42 am

Hi Richard and other book binders. I am new to this forum, I am english and live in Surrey. I have been binding for some years or rather learning to bind. I was trained and a graphic designer in the 1960s and worked in book and magazine publishing, designing many book over the years. I always wanted to take up bookbinding, much more since I started collecting antiquarian books. It was one of the skills I only touched on in College.
I started doing evening classes with professional binders, but now I have been lucky enough to be working part time with a binder and finisher of nearly sixty years experience. He started finishing work at 14 years of age.
He is giving me Master-classes and helping me by overseeing my work, but often leaves me to it. He has masses of equipment for most work and I have been picking up tools and other equipment online, but as previously mentioned many finishing tools are much overpriced on line.
I recently re-backed and renovated a number of antiquarian books 200- 300 years old worth several thousand pounds successfully, some my own and others for clients. But I would be the first to admit I have a long way to go.
Bookbinding is a skill that requires much practice, it can be tedious, but the results are worth it.
I have to say my binder friend disagrees with some of the comments about the use of animal glue over PVA, probably because many commercial binders would overcook their glue and trying to remove it is a monstrous job.
Sherlock

[Bookbinding] Re: board blocks & spine gluing

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (hbquikcomjamesl) — Sun, 07 Mar 2010 05:51:45 GMT

Author: hbquikcomjamesl
Post subject: Re: board blocks & spine gluing
Posted: Sun Mar 07, 2010 1:51 am

I'm not a professional bookbinder, nor do I play one on television, but I'd say (and no offense intended) that the problem is that the design isn't mechanically sound to begin with.

Consider the possible bindings:

Smyth sewn: very strong, and lies flat, but since the pages are sewn together through a fold at the spine end, it's impossible for a loose-leaf volume (i.e., folded signatures are a necessity), or for material that's too thick to fold.

Side sewn: Very strong, but doesn't lie completely flat. It could work for loose-leaf volume, but only if the pages are flexible.

Perfect or pad binding: Its strength (what little there is) depends entirely on the bond between the pages and the padding compound (and I understand that spine edges are normally roughened to increase the bonding surface, unless you're assembling a scratch-pad). This, of course, requires signatures to be cut into loose leaves. This bond has to be as strong as the base materials, so it really isn't going to work with heavy, rigid, board pages unless the padding compound is a lot stronger than I think it is.

Ring binding: This would probably work better for pages made of heavy board than of pages made of lighter stock. Its integrity depends on (1) the pages not ripping or wearing out between the holes and the spine edge, and (2) the rings staying closed tightly enough to keep the pages from catching at the point where they open.

Coil binding (spiral, wire-O, and so forth): Similar to ring binding, except that you don't have to deal with (2); on the other hand, they crush fairly easily.

Post binding: Very strong, but of all bindings, it lies the least flat. But for drilled loose-leaf pages, it's extremely well protected from wear, but if the pages are made of heavy, rigid board, then you need to provide some sort of hinge on each page.

Strap binding: This is really the cadillac of photo album and scrapbook bindings, developed by Webway, and used for both their professional photo albums and their "Creative Memories" consumer line. The pages typically have at least two staple-like wire protrusions at the spine, and straps are threaded through them. Or with certain types of pages, slots in the pages can replace the wires. Straps are threaded through them, and pulled tight; they function much like the cords of a smyth-sewn binding, just as the wires correspond to the threads and saw kerfs.

I'm not sure how the "board books" given to small children are put together, but I suspect that they're a bit more complicated than just slathering the spine-edge with really strong padding compound and slapping on a piece of super; if I were to try and construct such a thing, and couldn't use ring, coil, or strap binding, and couldn't build hinges into the pages, I'd probably want to use some sort of strong, dry-gum cloth tape (similar to what you'd use to repair a book that had come out of its casing because of a ripped super) to attach each page to both of the immediately adjacent ones. But that would probably necessitate covering both sides of each leaf with thinner stock, to hide the tape.

[Bookbinding] board blocks & spine gluing

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Abu) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 23:32:51 GMT

Author: Abu
Post subject: board blocks & spine gluing
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:32 pm

Hello

I have made many albums that look like the one in here, but with no down-support thing:
[url]http://threepillarsmedia.com/images/cache_spine_600.jpg
[/url]
The problem is: The photo papers start to come out from the spine!!!!
The problems I found after gluing the body into the cover and spine is: when opening the album, it is not widely opened; I mean it is not flat.

What is the correct way to glue the body of the album and the inner boards-block into the spine/album cover??

Your help is appreciated.
Thanks

[Bookbinding] Adhesive of choice for assembling a post-bound cover?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (hbquikcomjamesl) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 21:03:15 GMT

Author: hbquikcomjamesl
Post subject: Adhesive of choice for assembling a post-bound cover?
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 5:03 pm

It's been over a quarter-century since I took graphic arts in college, where the final project of the semester was to build a set of post-bound cover boards for the class notebook, and bind it, but it seems I'm going to be putting that long-dormant skill to work, building my own photo album covers, starting this year.

But I'm wondering. Back then, assuming we used buckram and cover stock instead of taking the easy way out (i.e. using "Contact paper" instead), the recommended adhesives were either paste or 3M 77 spray. I opted for paste.

What's the "gold standard" for adhesives these days, when you're applying cloth to cover boards? I'm probably going to be using either Dover or Arrestox, over regular cover boards, probably with a picture (most likely a color laser print) mounted on the front cover board, visible through a window cut in the cloth, so I would need either (a) something that wipes off a color laser print without a trace, (b) something that wouldn't ooze in the first place, or (c) a way to protect the picture, without compromising the bond holding the cloth down.

Any suggestions?

[Wanted] Looking for Coptic Stitch instructions for soft cover

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (CardStalker) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 16:11:48 GMT

Author: CardStalker
Post subject: Looking for Coptic Stitch instructions for soft cover
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 12:11 pm

I would like to learn how to do the coptic stitch and specifically on a leather wrap around cover. I have searched the internet and have not found a video for this specific application.
Any help would be appreciated.

[Bookbinding] Re: Chromium Tanned Leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:06:52 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Chromium Tanned Leather
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:06 am

It's immediate, Alex. The first layer of paste soaks into the leather, which allows the PVA to follow it. PVA by itself will not soak in well. The second layer of PVA is to slow down the drying of the PVA and will allow you some time to move the leather into its proper position. PVA by itself drys quickly. The second layer of paste doesn't have to be at all thick.

[Wanted] Re: Antivirus for Dell Laptops

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 11:00:37 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Antivirus for Dell Laptops
Posted: Sat Mar 06, 2010 7:00 am

Guz,

My day job is computer security for a U.S. Gov agency. The best anit-virus out there for the money is still Symantec (Norton). Download the latest version and the most recent signature file. When you set it up allow it to update itself automatically. If you bought a new Dell, it came with McAfee anti-virus, which is also a good one. Just make sure you let it update itself automatically too.

[Wanted] Antivirus for Dell Laptops

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (guzzus) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 03:12:51 GMT

Author: guzzus
Post subject: Antivirus for Dell Laptops
Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 11:12 pm

Hey guys, i have got a new dell Inspiron 1464... is there anyone who can tell me the latest Anti virus for my laptop.

[Venting] need suggestion....

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ontario) — Sat, 06 Mar 2010 01:16:14 GMT

Author: ontario
Post subject: need suggestion....
Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 9:16 pm

hi...everybody
myself ankit ,22 years old,
I am a graduate in mechanical engineering ,and I am preparing for GRE to get admission in NYU
so please suggest me E books or books which will gonna help me
thanks

[Bookbinding] Re: Chromium Tanned Leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (preacherman) — Fri, 05 Mar 2010 04:52:45 GMT

Author: preacherman
Post subject: Re: Chromium Tanned Leather
Posted: Fri Mar 05, 2010 12:52 am

Bookbum,

I'm just curious about step #6 "Apply a layer of PVA". Do you allow the PVA to dry somewhat first or is this step followed immediately with #7?

Alex

[Suppliers] Binding Eqiupment and Supplies

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bindingguy) — Wed, 03 Mar 2010 04:52:29 GMT

Author: bindingguy
Post subject: Binding Eqiupment and Supplies
Posted: Wed Mar 03, 2010 12:52 am

Hello, I have a great website to share with everyone http://www.lloydsofindiana.com has been selling and supporting binding machines
and finishing equipment like paper cutters and bookletmakers. This company has great prices and the service.

[Books] Re: Hand Bookbinding: A Manual of Instruction

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (jezzicaz789) — Sun, 28 Feb 2010 23:57:21 GMT

Author: jezzicaz789
Post subject: Re: Hello Roger
Posted: Sun Feb 28, 2010 7:57 pm

edenworkshops wrote:Hello Roger

I am going to split up antiquarian book restoration, which is what you are talking about, into two groups.

To restore cloth bound books, be they rare or otherwise, you can make do with a minimum of equipment, you would need all the small tools which are relatively inexpensive, but with regard expensive equipment, you don't need it....well, almost don't need it.

There is one piece of equipment, a finishing press, that you might consider purchasing, but there are those, more ardent in their desire to improvise, who would say why not use a black & decker workmate instead?

A finishing press would cost about Â£100 new ($200) I am not sure about the current price of a black & decker workmate?

To restore cloth bound books does take skill but the process, once learned completely and in detail, is fairly straightforward.

On the other hand, restoring leather bound books is a different kettle of fish in terms of skill needed. To venture into this area without proper training is to court disaster. I think those who practice this craft will agree with me, to restore rare, leather bound antique books you need a proper training.

I feel it is open to debate as to what equipment is needed to restore leather bound books, a finishing press, a lying press, and decorative hand tools, what more I wonder?

I can and do help people with cloth case restoration via email and with good pictures, but please Roger promise me you won't just jump in and start swimming when it comes to leather restoration, a proper training can be obtained through full time or evening class's, residential courses etc.

Also when it comes to some forms of leather restoration you will find that you need decorative hand tools, these are quite costly and you may find you can never get enough of them.

So, there we have it.

Cloth case restoration, yes with a good book and or a teacher of some kind.

Leather restoration? If you have the money I would suggest you purchased the book by Bernard Middleton titled "The Restoration of Leather Bindings" ISBN 158456119X.

This wonderful book will give you considerable insight into what leather restoration is all about.

I hope this has helped you a little.

Best Wishes

Richard

Still shivering by the pool in France

P.S. For the past year I have been offering myself as a mentor to those thinking of taking up the craft. If you would like to know more just visit my website.

Thank you for the post.
Hi guys, Im a newbie. Nice to join this forum.

[Suppliers] www.bookbinding-tools.co.uk

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (albieh) — Sat, 27 Feb 2010 01:45:11 GMT

Author: albieh
Post subject: www.bookbinding-tools.co.uk
Posted: Fri Feb 26, 2010 9:45 pm

Check out this new website, very reasonable prices & a few surprises!!!

[Bookbinding] salute

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (george) — Wed, 24 Feb 2010 07:09:12 GMT

Author: george
Post subject: salute
Posted: Wed Feb 24, 2010 3:09 am

Hi, my name is George, i'm from Romania, i am bookbinder since 1979 and i love this trade. Unfortunately hier , in Romania handbookbinding is perishing.
They are only few firms who try to do something but without succes. I want to find someone availeble to help or even to expand his busines in Romania.
Thank You.

[Wanted] Re: Skive Knife Blades

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (hardsteel) — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 07:16:28 GMT

Author: hardsteel
Post subject: Re: Skive Knife Blades
Posted: Thu Feb 18, 2010 3:16 am

are the Peachy knives worth so much more than the other knives that Talas offers? Why?

good question...for me i believe that peachy knives is worth than other knives.

[Bookbinding] Re: Sharpening a skiving knife

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Peter Verheyen) — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 14:52:33 GMT

Author: Peter Verheyen
Post subject: Re: Jeweller rouge
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 10:52 am

As you are in Queensland, have you checked out the Queensland Bookbinders' Guild. They're online at http://www.qbg.org.au. They have a good list of resources on their site.

See also http://www.bookbinding.net.au.

p.

euro wrote:Hi there!
Just one question please: as I am a beginner, I would like to know what for a jeweller rouge is used in bookbindig.
Can anyone explain it to me please?
Anybody knows of a good (enough) course- on a free basis- I could download from the web?
Finally, is there anyone with an idea about the possibility to help beginners in this group? (Or question and answers without boring all the rest of experienced people?) Any idea would be very welcome.
Thanks
Euro

[Bookbinding] Re: What kind of leather to use?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 11:28:26 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: What kind of leather to use?
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 7:28 am

The only way that leather should crack around the edges in 10 years is if something unusual happens to it like water, excessive heat or a very dry environment. It should last for 100 years. The British Library study was looking at 100 year old (and older) books.

Also Lou, you're missing another very active forum, The Book Arts Forum. Check it out.

[Bookbinding] Re: What kind of leather to use?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (lou555) — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 10:25:55 GMT

Author: lou555
Post subject: Re: What kind of leather to use?
Posted: Thu Feb 11, 2010 6:25 am

Thank you,for you help

Do you think that upholstery leather which is vegetable tanned could crack around the edges over time?even after 10 years or so, if the book will be looked at probably 20 times a year?I don't understand what is the main difference in manufacturing of veget.tanned leather for upholstery and bookbinding.Some upholstery leather doesn't have any protective finish at all.

Charles,do you have a press with hot stamping dies,that form raised design?If yes,do you wet the leather when using hot dies?

Thank you ,guys,I think this is the only active forum on bookbinding where you can get any help.

[Bookbinding] Re: What kind of leather to use?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Thu, 11 Feb 2010 01:34:14 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: What kind of leather to use?
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 9:34 pm

I'm not sure what kind of problems Charles is having using "upholstery leather". I use chromium, aluminum and veg tanned letter all the time. I have no problems gilting it or blind stamping the "upholstery leathers". I hot tool both the blind and the gold. They form beautifully around raised bands and cords. There are differences in the heat and other techniques when working with the different leathers.

The only big problem I had to overcome with non-veg tanned leather is how pliable it is. It's much softer than veg tanned and is therefore harder to skive, but once you get used to it (and learn to keep your knives very sharp) it will do what you want.

As Charles hinted, these leathers are resistant but they weren't designed to be resistant to the intentional "abuse" that we as binders inflict, i.e. staining with good stains, being work with while wet, hot tooling.

As for length of life, the Conservation Branch in the British Library performed an extensive program of research into the causes of decay of bookbinding leather (veg-tanned leather). According to Bernard Middleton in his book, The Restoration of Leather Bindings, in the end, the British Library said, "Users of bookbinding leather (for archival purposes) are advised to employ alum-tawed or full chrom-tanned leather, both of which have excellent records for durability."

If you've got the leather, work with it, experiment, you might just be pleasantly surprised.

[Wanted] Oversewing Machine and hand operated blocking machine

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (KennysBindery) — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 22:20:02 GMT

Author: KennysBindery
Post subject: Oversewing Machine and hand operated blocking machine
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 6:20 pm

Hi,

We are a bookbinding company in Galway, Ireland that has been operating for the last 35 years.

We are on the look out for an oversewing machine for library bindings etc.

We are also always interested in any hand operated gold foil blocking machines with a plate surface of 300mm x 220mm or above.

If anyone has anything that might suit please contact us or visit our web site below.
http://www.kennys.ie/bookbindery

Thank you,

Kenny's Bindery

[Bookbinding] Re: What kind of leather to use?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (lou555) — Wed, 10 Feb 2010 15:39:16 GMT

Author: lou555
Post subject: Re: What kind of leather to use?
Posted: Wed Feb 10, 2010 11:39 am

Thank you,
1.)So the blind tooling of that kind of leather would be impossible?If it is not possible because of the fact that the leather won't get wet to be blind tooled would it be ok to use it if i would just make a shape by putting paper under the leather to form the desired pattern?Like a star shaped paper.I can have free upholstery leather of that kind and i need to do more books,but the leather from bookbinding supply store is too expensive for me.
2.)What if I would decide just to make a plain cover ,would the upholstery leather work?

3.)Would it be ok to use hot dies to form the desired pattern on upholstery leather?
Any help would help.Thank you,

[Bookbinding] Re: Newcomer's questions

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Charles H) — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 11:57:18 GMT

Author: Charles H
Post subject: Re: Newcomer's questions
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:57 am

I used to make a lot of leather bound notebooks, both for my own use and for gifts to other people; little ones are great for using up offcuts of otherwise expensive paper. They are rather lifeless without marble endpapers and headbands, here's your chance to go to town!

[Bookbinding] Re: What kind of leather to use?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Charles H) — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 11:53:53 GMT

Author: Charles H
Post subject: Re: What kind of leather to use?
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 7:53 am

No way do you want anything to do with upholstery leather, especially if you intend to blind tool it. Upholstery leather, generally speaking, is intentionally mark resistant. I would recommend a) you only source leather from a bookbinding materials supplier e.g J Hewit & Sons, and b) goatskin will have the strength you require for a photo album and comes in all the colours.

[Bookbinding] Re: Sharpening a skiving knife

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (sharpknives) — Tue, 09 Feb 2010 04:36:58 GMT

Author: sharpknives
Post subject: Re: Sharpening a skiving knife
Posted: Tue Feb 09, 2010 12:36 am

i am looking for a sharpener for my pocket knife. do you guys have a suggestions?

[Bookbinding] Bookbinding with curved spine

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (maboroshi) — Sun, 07 Feb 2010 19:06:50 GMT

Author: maboroshi
Post subject: Bookbinding with curved spine
Posted: Sun Feb 07, 2010 3:06 pm

I am new to the forums and to bookbinding so, any help will be well appreciated. I have two questions. My first question is regarding placing a book cloth cover around a curved spine made from binder/chip boards. The spine will be in between two binder/chip boards (when open) that will make the cover of the book. What is the best way to place the book cloth cover around the spine and covers, much like in this picture: http://www.madaboutcards.com/shopimages/products/normal/main_16920.jpg? Is there a specific way? I could not find any tutorials on this. The book will not be perfect bound. The curved spine is to accommodate wire binding. My second question is regarding the book cloth's protection. Is there a sealant that can make a book cloth water resistant without damaging the cloth? The book cloth I'm using has paper on the bottom side.

Thank you very much in advance. I greatly appreciate any help.

[Bookbinding] What kind of leather to use?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (lou555) — Sat, 06 Feb 2010 17:15:09 GMT

Author: lou555
Post subject: What kind of leather to use?
Posted: Sat Feb 06, 2010 1:15 pm

Hi,I would need to get help with choosing the right leather for one of my photo-albums.I am little bit confused on what kind of leather it is ok to use.It doesn't have to last 200years ,so I don't need a museum archival quality but something that would last 100years or so would be nice.I will be blind tooling the leather cover.I have found aniline dyed leather that is also vegetable tanned.It is being sold on a website that sells upholstery leather,but I like the color.As it is made for upholstery i think it might have some protection finish on it.Would I be able to blind tool it?It is 1mm thick.Thank you.

[Bookbinding] Re: Newcomer's questions

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 01:07:37 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Newcomer's questions
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:07 pm

Most 19th century hardbound books definately had endpapers with fly leaves though I can't tell you about notebooks from that period. Quite often the endpapers were sewn into the text block as part of the first and last signatures and then attached to the boards. This is still common today. Could this be what you're looking at?

Again, I don't know about notebooks from the period but headbands were also common, even in blank ledgers of that period.

[Bookbinding] Re: Chromium Tanned Leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Fri, 05 Feb 2010 01:02:56 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Chromium Tanned Leather
Posted: Thu Feb 04, 2010 9:02 pm

Steve,

It turns out that I've been using quite a bit of this chromium tanned leather since I started this thread and I've grown quite fond of it. A little harder to skive but I like the results I've gotten with it. Also, I found a lot of research by the British Library and others that indicated that it will last a lot longer on a book than veg tanned leather. The British library actually to recommend retanning veg tanned leather to get the qualities of both.

As to your question, I never use pure PVA when attaching my leather to boards or spine.
I always:
1. Soak the leather in water for ~15 minutes
2. Press the excess water out.
3. Apply a thick layer of paste to the inside of the leather
4. Fold it over onto itself and let the paste soad in for ~15 minutes
5. Scrap off the excess paste
6. Apply a layer of PVA
7. Apply a thin layer of paste
8. Put it on the book.

Paste soaks into the material it's applied to. PVA will only sit on top. The layering (paste/PVA/paste), I believe, gives me the best results. I don't premix the two.

[Bookbinding] Newcomer's questions

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (steles) — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 10:23:14 GMT

Author: steles
Post subject: Newcomer's questions
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:23 am

Hi i am new to the forum so thanks in advance for any help i receive and apologies for any silly questions i may ask. I am planning a leather covered 19th century style notebook the only one i have found on the internet has the bookblock pasted directly to the boards, no endpapers or flyleaves was this common, also would the notebook have head and tail bands as i cannot tell from the photo's.
Thanks again,
Steve

[Bookbinding] Re: Chromium Tanned Leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (steles) — Tue, 02 Feb 2010 10:07:06 GMT

Author: steles
Post subject: Re: Chromium Tanned Leather
Posted: Tue Feb 02, 2010 6:07 am

i have some 50/50 paste pva would this work on chrome tanned or would i have to use pure pva
thanks Steve

[Books] Re: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (patience) — Sun, 24 Jan 2010 23:48:55 GMT

Author: patience
Post subject: Re: A Bibliographical, Antiquarian and Picturesque Tour
Posted: Sun Jan 24, 2010 7:48 pm

Hello,
This is really a good book.
This book contains most interesting feature about France and German.

[Events and Meetings] George Kane: celebration service?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Willow Munger) — Thu, 14 Jan 2010 13:03:34 GMT

Author: Willow Munger
Post subject: George Kane: celebration service?
Posted: Thu Jan 14, 2010 9:03 am

Hello,
I am a former student of George Kane, who taught Book Arts at UCSC for many years and is very well known in the publishing and book arts communities. He passed away recently and I hear there are plans for a Celebration Of Life service. Does anyone on this forum have information about this? Please keep me posted. Thanks!

[Suppliers] Re: New Website

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (craftydesigner) — Wed, 13 Jan 2010 07:01:46 GMT

Author: craftydesigner
Post subject: Re: New Website
Posted: Wed Jan 13, 2010 3:01 am

To Admin -
I fixed the problem with the ordering info page -- if you still can't get it, try refreshing your browser.
Thanks so much for checking out the site and for your feedback!

[Suppliers] Re: New Website

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Annied) — Sat, 09 Jan 2010 14:20:02 GMT

Author: Annied
Post subject: Re: New Website
Posted: Sat Jan 09, 2010 10:20 am

It worked for me. Looks interesting.

[Suppliers] Re: New Website

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Thu, 07 Jan 2010 02:18:51 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: New Website
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 10:18 pm

http://www.signaturecraftsupplies.com/orderingInformation/index.html

points to a blank page.....

[Suppliers] New Website

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (craftydesigner) — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 06:24:24 GMT

Author: craftydesigner
Post subject: New Website
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:24 am

Hello members -
I would like to introduce a new e-store with lots of bookbinding, crafting and decorative materials: Signature Craft Supplies.
Please visit us at: http://www.signaturecraftsupplies.com
This is a new site, so we will constantly be updating and adding new products. We are currently running a special:
$10 for a pint of Yes! Paste.

Thanks so much. If you visit, I would love your feedback.

Happy New Year.

[For sale] new website

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (craftydesigner) — Wed, 06 Jan 2010 06:08:35 GMT

Author: craftydesigner
Post subject: new website
Posted: Wed Jan 06, 2010 2:08 am

Hello -
As well as being a craft and bookbinding enthusiast, I am also a web designer. I have designed the following site:
http://www.signaturecraftsupplies.com
There are many products here that I think would interest people in this forum. It is a new site, and I will constantly
be putting new products up. They are currently running a special for $10 pint of Yes! Paste, which I think is a pretty good deal.
Hope you like the site.

[Bookbinding] Re: Happy New Year

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Charles H) — Fri, 01 Jan 2010 19:05:12 GMT

Author: Charles H
Post subject: Re: Happy New Year
Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 3:05 pm

Ditto, Happy New Year everybody!

[Bookbinding] Re: Happy New Year

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Fri, 01 Jan 2010 11:44:08 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Happy New Year
Posted: Fri Jan 01, 2010 7:44 am

admin wrote: titles spelled correctly

Denis,

That made me really laugh out loud. I did a title label last year (2009) on which I spelled Einstein incorrectly, redid it, and then realized I misspelled Princeton on the same label incorrectly too. Sumtymes the fingres jus don work write.

Happy New Year to All wishing you good fortune and health.

[How to's for the Forum] Re: How do I....?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (man1920) — Fri, 01 Jan 2010 01:27:14 GMT

Author: man1920
Post subject: Re: How do I....?
Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 9:27 pm

I am actually looking for this. Sorry i am just new here. Not really familiar. Thanks!

[Bookbinding] Happy New Year

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Thu, 31 Dec 2009 11:03:01 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Happy New Year
Posted: Thu Dec 31, 2009 7:03 am

Greetings forum members,
may 2010 bring you joy and happiness as well as wealth and health for this new year and new decade, 2009 is gone, some say not soon enough, welcome 2010, may all your bookbinding projects run smoothly, may all your cuts be to size and your thread be strong, may all your gluing be clean and straight and your titles spelled correctly.
Thank you all for making this forum entertaining and instructive.

Happy New year.

Denis

[Printing] Re: Printing books to bind - best materials and method

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (denis) — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 16:48:37 GMT

Author: denis
Post subject: Re: Printing books to bind - best materials and method
Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 12:48 pm

printingforum.com is not a valid site anymore....

[Printing] Re: Printing books to bind - best materials and method

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 11:06:29 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Printing books to bind - best materials and method
Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 7:06 am

I think I read it on www.printingforum.com. A good place to ask anyway.

[Bookbinding] Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 10:59:08 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???
Posted: Thu Dec 24, 2009 6:59 am

I can't help you with the Dahle cutters. I balked at their prices too and bought the Louet Vertical Plough Plane from Talas. Fairly inexpensive, easy to store and fast enough for my purposes.

[Bookbinding] Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (mckinney3) — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 04:11:52 GMT

Author: mckinney3
Post subject: Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???
Posted: Wed Dec 23, 2009 12:11 am

Thanks everbody for the tips!

I would love to hear from someone using one of these $500-$1000 cutters.

I have several printer contacts but the charge is $2 per cut .... period! Gets expensive in a hurry and I lose control. A stack of 1000 sheets cost me $2 or a tiny little book trimmed on 3 sides cost me $6. I am making enough books that I need some type of interim cutter to cut stock in volume but nothing like what goes on in the print shops.

[Bookbinding] Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Annied) — Wed, 23 Dec 2009 00:40:58 GMT

Author: Annied
Post subject: Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 8:40 pm

How many books are you planning to make? If it's not too many, then it might be cheaper, as an interim measure, to look for a small local printing company with an electric guillotine and ask them to do it. If you're talking in terms of 10 or 20, it would be a very quick job, so I can't imagine it would cost much. I've used a local company here and for the odd one off, they don't even charge me. Mind you, I've given them bigger jobs over the years and sent other people to them, so there's a bit of goodwill involved.

[Bookbinding] Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Zoltar) — Tue, 22 Dec 2009 21:36:52 GMT

Author: Zoltar
Post subject: Re: Paper cutter for trimming book blocks ???
Posted: Tue Dec 22, 2009 5:36 pm

I don't know how good the Tamerica Guillomax paper cutter is, but it's specifications say it will cut 360 sheets, and it costs a lot less ($495).