Bookbinding

[Books] Re: Bookbinding Its Background and Technique

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 22:25:57 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Bookbinding Its Background and Technique
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:25 pm

This Edith Diehl book was the first paperback I rebound in 3/4 leather.

[Bookbinding] Re: Gold leaf on leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ScottC) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 06:13:18 GMT

Author: ScottC
Post subject: Re: Gold leaf on leather
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:13 am

Hi,

This is also a late reply, since I haven't visited here in a long time, but I thought I'd post it for the record.

In Melbourne (Australia), you can also get it at a lot of art and craft supply shops like Riot Art. The art supply shop at the bottom of the CAE in Degraves St. Melbourne sells real gold leaf too.

http://www.seniorart.com.au/

You can also get hot stamping foils, in real or imitation gold (or silver, or most other colours) from Milford Astor

http://www.astor.com.au/

They normally supply industry, so they sell rolls from a few cm to a metre or more wide!

Cheers,

Scott.

[Suppliers] Re: Low Cost Lether???

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ScottC) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 05:46:05 GMT

Author: ScottC
Post subject: Re: Low Cost Lether???
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 1:46 am

Some may be interested in this Kangaroo leather from Australia...

http://www.packerleather.com/book-binding-leather.html

There are many other sources of it too, which can be easily found with a google search.

PS: I dont make, or sell, Kangaroo leather

[Books] Re: Thames and Hudson manual on bookbinding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (sofiadavis1) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 04:45:52 GMT

Author: sofiadavis1
Post subject: Re: Thames and Hudson manual on bookbinding
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:45 am

I appreciate for the information that you presented on Thames and Hudson manual on bookbinding and that I think you have a wonderful information.Provide great guide to those who have no knowledge about it and who are new to this field.

[Books] Re: Book Mystery

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (sofiadavis1) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 04:44:28 GMT

Author: sofiadavis1
Post subject: Re: Book Mystery
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:44 am

As per my knowledge it inspire adding to Robicheaux’s troubles is the matter of his daughter, Alafair, on leave from Stanford Law to put the finishing touches on her novel.

[Books] Re: Bookbinding Its Background and Technique

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (sofiadavis1) — Wed, 21 Jul 2010 04:41:02 GMT

Author: sofiadavis1
Post subject: Re: Bookbinding Its Background and Technique
Posted: Wed Jul 21, 2010 12:41 am

Learning is complex at best.We have all been to school; we think we know how we learn best.I glad to see it here and as far I know One of the most useful books I will ever owned .

[Wanted] Madaba Map help

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Mon, 19 Jul 2010 21:51:00 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Madaba Map help
Posted: Mon Jul 19, 2010 5:51 pm

I just bought a wonderful rendition of the famous map, of course all captions are in Greek and I can't read!
Anyone out here with the knowledge?

caption 1.jpg

caption 3.jpg

[Bookbinding] Re: Where to start?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Snic19) — Thu, 15 Jul 2010 22:03:11 GMT

Author: Snic19
Post subject: Re: Where to start?
Posted: Thu Jul 15, 2010 6:03 pm

Thanks so much for the help. I hope to get started soon. I'm sure I will have more questions before long. Thanks again.

[Bookbinding] Re: Where to start?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Annied) — Wed, 14 Jul 2010 23:52:53 GMT

Author: Annied
Post subject: Re: Where to start?
Posted: Wed Jul 14, 2010 7:52 pm

Hi Snic and welcome. This might help to get you started, it's how I was taught to rebind a paperback.

[For sale] Re: Challenge 193, 19 inch Guillotine Paper Cutter For Sale

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kmard1111) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 21:18:26 GMT

Author: kmard1111
Post subject: Re: Challenge 193, 19 inch Guillotine Paper Cutter For Sale
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 5:18 pm

Yeah it's still available. Let me know if you want me to send you pictures or more information!
kmard11@hotmail.com
-Thanks

[For sale] Re: Challenge 193, 19 inch Guillotine Paper Cutter For Sale

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (dennispjohnson) — Tue, 13 Jul 2010 20:44:55 GMT

Author: dennispjohnson
Post subject: Re: Challenge 193, 19 inch Guillotine Paper Cutter For Sale
Posted: Tue Jul 13, 2010 4:44 pm

Do you still have the cutter?

[Bookbinding] Re: Rookie questions: working leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 23:30:01 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Rookie questions: working leather
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:30 pm

You might consider a mixture of paste and PVA. This would give you plenty of time to rework the leather but still not require the loooooong drying time of paste. For my leather binding, I apply a layer of PVA and then a layer of paste, but I do know some people who make a mixture and apply it together.

[Bookbinding] Re: Where to start?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bookbum) — Mon, 12 Jul 2010 23:22:53 GMT

Author: bookbum
Post subject: Re: Where to start?
Posted: Mon Jul 12, 2010 7:22 pm

Hi Snic,

You're starting into a great pastime. I often bind paperbacks for clients in either half, 3/4, or full leather. I've even done some cloth ones for my granddaughter. You can make them as plain or as fancy as you wish. There are some simple inexpensive books that will get you started and you can do most, if not all, of the work with items you have around the house. Look at some books first and you'll see what tools you'll need for your picture. The job of binding a paperback is not much different than rebinding a hardcover book. Keep that in mind as you do your reading. One or more of these "basic" books should be available at your local library:

Hand Bookbinding: A manual of Instruction Aldren A Watson, Bell Press
The Handmade Book Angela James, Storey Books
The Essential Guide to Making Handmade Books by Gabriell Fox, North Lights Books
Bookbinding as a Handcraft by Manly Banister,Bell Press

Bricks or piles of other books can be used as a press.
Just have a clean area in which to work where it is easy to see if you've gotten dirt or glue on the work area.
Depending on how seriously you get into bookbinding, you'll find yourself buying more and more STUFF!!

Have fun.

[Bookbinding] Re: Rookie questions: working leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (mike) — Thu, 08 Jul 2010 21:34:10 GMT

Author: mike
Post subject: Re: Rookie questions: working leather
Posted: Thu Jul 08, 2010 5:34 pm

Thanks! I appreciate your time and advice.

[Bookbinding] Re: Harry Potter Book Help

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (brokenbooks) — Wed, 07 Jul 2010 15:58:08 GMT

Author: brokenbooks
Post subject: Re: Harry Potter Book Help
Posted: Wed Jul 07, 2010 11:58 am

Well in theory silkscreening would work. BUt silkscreening requires quite a lot to achieve multi-color images. Silk-screens are based on a process of photo emulsion transfer and multi-layer color application. It is technically difficult and requires a lot of practice to achieve satisfactory results. Painting the covers would OK, it all depends on what you want at that point.

[Bookbinding] Where to start?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Snic19) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 21:18:51 GMT

Author: Snic19
Post subject: Where to start?
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 5:18 pm

Hello all. I am new to the forum and new to bookbinding. I am mostly interested in stripping paperbacks and making hardcover bindings for them. I have not attempted this yet, still in the research stage. Any advice on where to start; books, websites, etc, would be much appreciated. Also what tools would I need to get started? Thanks for any help you can give.

[Bookbinding] Re: Harry Potter Book Help

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (fuzz080) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 18:29:58 GMT

Author: fuzz080
Post subject: Re: Harry Potter Book Help
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:29 pm

Hey, thanks for the quick response. For the decorations, would it be possible to just paint the cloth with fabric paint. If worse comes to worse, I guess I would go with the dust jacket, but I was looking for a more old and magical kind of theme to the books. I'm not sure exactly what silk screening is, but would it work to make the decorations on the book?

[Bookbinding] Re: Harry Potter Book Help

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (brokenbooks) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 15:25:27 GMT

Author: brokenbooks
Post subject: Re: Harry Potter Book Help
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:25 am

Those look like case-bindings. The structure of which is rather simple and could be done at home without too much equipment. Although they could be done much better if you had access to a job-backer so that the rounding and backing could be done more accurately. It is possible though, to round and back without.

The text-blocks are most likely perfect bound, which is difficult to do without a perfect-binder. So sewing on tapes is what you'll want to look into. As for the decorations that are pressed into the cloth, this is impossible without many individual tools, or a sophisticated finishing apparatus. You can achieve a nicely decorated dust-jacket with a high quality printer, paper and Adobe Illustrator.

[Bookbinding] Re: Rookie questions: working leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (brokenbooks) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 15:20:15 GMT

Author: brokenbooks
Post subject: Re: Rookie questions: working leather
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 11:20 am

I would say that making the move to paste would be the best idea. As for your book with the odd endcap, it may be best just to knock it up to a learning experience. Trying to rework the endcap after moistening could cause you to wreck what you have already. PVA will moisten but not to the degree you would need to properly reapply the endcap.

Also there is always risk of tidelines on your leather after remoistening in a localized area as you suggest. While tidelines are much less likely with factory dyed leather, it is still a possibility.

Save yourself time, go with paste. It dries much slower allowing you ample time to work and rework details like endcaps before setting.

[Bookbinding] Harry Potter Book Help

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (fuzz080) — Tue, 06 Jul 2010 06:37:27 GMT

Author: fuzz080
Post subject: Harry Potter Book Help
Posted: Tue Jul 06, 2010 2:37 am

Hey guys, I'm an avid HP fan and I'm looking to recreate the books in the above pictures. I have a basic understanding of bookbinding but I'm trying to learn the more advanced techniques used in the making of these books. If you guys could name a couple of the techniques and where there used it would b a great help so I could research them and learn more about them.

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4014/464 ... ea9e12.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4037/464 ... 40f6c3.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4019/464 ... b69461.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3385/464 ... 7c51b6.jpg

[Bookbinding] Rookie questions: working leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (mike) — Sat, 03 Jul 2010 11:23:53 GMT

Author: mike
Post subject: Rookie questions: working leather
Posted: Sat Jul 03, 2010 7:23 am

I've been teaching myself to bind in leather in the last few months--expanding my horizons from cloth and paper bindings. It is going relatively well, but the turn-in at the spine is a killer for tight-back bindings and I'm still working on my technique. In the meantime... One end of a recent book I bound just looks sort of funny. Any way to loosen the leather a bit and try and reshape it? I wondered about dampening the outside. But I wanted an opinion. The leather is goat and the adhesive is PVA. (I was recently encouraged to move to paste). The binding was glued up 2 or 3 days ago. If it is too late, then no big deal--it doesn't look that bad, just a touch like the amateur work that it is. Thanks for any advice.

[Venting] spammers

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Thu, 01 Jul 2010 04:28:17 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: spammers
Posted: Thu Jul 01, 2010 12:28 am

not too happy about spammers, but you are wasting your time , your posted links will not stay on this forum, I check it everyday and purge any spam I find

[Events and Meetings] Re: Now Online - The Bonefolder Volume 6, No. 2, Spring 2010

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (walkermore) — Thu, 01 Jul 2010 03:59:26 GMT

Author: walkermore
Post subject: Re: Now Online - The Bonefolder Volume 6, No. 2, Spring 2010
Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 11:59 pm

sounds good to me

[Wanted] Re: Looking for classes or workshops

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (finleybull) — Thu, 01 Jul 2010 00:09:20 GMT

Author: finleybull
Post subject: Re: Looking for classes or workshops
Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 8:09 pm

Do you have stacks of paper that you neither want to throw nor do you know what to do with? You can bind all those sheets into a book and use it to jot down things to remember, make shopping lists, or even use it as a personal diary. All you need to know are some book binding procedures. Those beautifully bound books and diaries on the shop racks may make you wonder if you could bind a book at home. But believe me book binding processes are not that difficult. Yes, the book you bind at home may not have the same the finish as the custom book binding procedures. Nevertheless, with a little time and creativity you can put those extra stacks of sheet to good use. Let's see how.

Book Binding Procedures--------

Book Binding Technique 1

Materials Required
Sheets of paper (depending upon the size of the book)
Piece of cardboard
Wallpaper, contact paper, felt or cotton fabric
Paper cutter
A pair of scissors
White glue or wallpaper paste
Needle with a large eye
Twine, carpet thread, crochet thread or quilting thread.
Procedure

For the Book-----

Determine the size of the book that you require. Fold the sheets midway. If you want a book of 5 1/2″ x 9″ dimensions use sheets of paper having dimensions of 11″ x 18″ as folding them midway will give you pages of the desired size. Each side of a folded sheet of paper will give four pages. Hence divide the number of pages you want to have for your book by 4. Use one sheet extra than the number that you get. This extra sheet will serve as the first and the last page onto which the cover will be pasted.

Place all the sheets on top of each other. Fold them midway. Clip all the four edges to hold the sheets in place. You can also clip the center of the fold. Beginning ½ '' from the top of the fold, start marking for holes at regular intervals. Make holes with the needles and sew the book along the holes.

For the Cover------

Cut two cardboard pieces in the shape of the book. These pieces could be the same size or a little larger than the book's dimensions. Place the two pieces on the felt, cloth or the material you are using to cover the cardboard pieces such that there is a gap of 1/8″ to 1/4″ between them. Draw the outline of the cardboard pieces on the material with a pencil. Remove the cardboard pieces. Now cut the material one inch around the entire outside of the pencil mark.

Apply glue to the cardboard pieces and place them along the pencil mark. Apply glue to the one inch of extra material along the border of the cardboard pieces. Fold in the four corners so that the tip of the corners of the material lies on the diagonal of the cardboard piece. Now fold in the material along the sides of the cardboard. Let the cover dry.

Apply glue to the outer sides of the first and the last page of the book. Place the book carefully along the center of the two cardboard pieces and smooth down. Close the book and place some weight over it. Leave it to dry for a few days.

Please try this

By
Finley Bull
Handforth Dean Parking
Long Stay Parking

[Suppliers] Spring steel spine clamping binder

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Nederlander) — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 17:38:24 GMT

Author: Nederlander
Post subject: Spring steel spine clamping binder
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 1:38 pm

Hello

I have just joined this forum in the hopes of finding a source of binders as the one I had as a child. It was a faux leather with an internal spring steel "C" cross-sectioned piece that ran the length of the spine but covered as not to be visible. To open the binder and remove the pages, one simply folded the covers backwards. This opened the clamp to remove or add more pages. I believe it was originally given to me as a stamp album but I've not found any in those sources.

Thanks
Nederlander

[Wanted] Looking for classes or workshops

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Miss Lauren) — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 16:27:18 GMT

Author: Miss Lauren
Post subject: Looking for classes or workshops
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 12:27 pm

Hello,
I have just joined this forum, and this is my first post. I live between Rochester and Buffalo NY, and have recently become very interested in bookbinding. I have read several books and have acquired an assortment of equipment, so now I am looking for someone that can show me hands on how to do this!! I am mainly interested in re-binding old, worn out books, personal Bibles... Any information or suggestions would be appreciated.

Miss Lauren

[Bookbinding] endbands

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (nikizouboula) — Fri, 25 Jun 2010 06:43:56 GMT

Author: nikizouboula
Post subject: endbands
Posted: Fri Jun 25, 2010 2:43 am

hi, can someone give me some information how to construct the byzantine primary endband with double support because i am very confused..in case that someone knows any relevant book so i can read the details of constructing it...

thanks a lot..

niki from Greece

[Wanted] Re: Oversewing Machine and hand operated blocking machine

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (smithlanger) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 23:23:42 GMT

Author: smithlanger
Post subject: Re: Oversewing Machine and hand operated blocking machine
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 7:23 pm

sounds good to me

[Bookbinding] Re: Where can I find reams of ivory book paper?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ENT) — Thu, 24 Jun 2010 12:28:45 GMT

Author: ENT
Post subject: Re: Where can I find reams of ivory book paper?
Posted: Thu Jun 24, 2010 8:28 am

You need to find a paper merchant like Xpedx. You will need to get either 8-1/2 x 11 grain short, or 11 x 17 grain long cut down to 8-1/2 x 11. 60 - 80# text should suit your purposes.

[Bookbinding] Where can I find reams of ivory book paper?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Bobosmite) — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 21:04:27 GMT

Author: Bobosmite
Post subject: Where can I find reams of ivory book paper?
Posted: Tue Jun 22, 2010 5:04 pm

I've been printing and binding books for about a year now, and I'd like to start using ivory book paper instead of the white paper you normally find at the store...printer/copier paper. What I need most letter-size with the paper grain running the short length. I've made a few hundred blank books using Southworth Fine Granite (ivory) paper from Staples which is great for journals, but it has a slight texture to it, and again, the grain runs the wrong way. http://picasaweb.google.com/bobosmite/B ... irectlink#

Also, has anyone tried to print on this type of paper with an inkjet? The paper is much softer and may not be flat enough to print a clear font.

This might also solve another problem I'm having: I'm not getting that curling/fanning effect on the spine after it's been pressed. My spines are rounded nicely, but they just don't fan and that makes the spine look odd.

[Bookbinding] Re: Newbie: Lay Flat binding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Adrienne Allen) — Tue, 22 Jun 2010 02:58:26 GMT

Author: Adrienne Allen
Post subject: Re: Newbie: Lay Flat binding
Posted: Mon Jun 21, 2010 10:58 pm

I suggest you have a look at:

Japanese Bookbinding
Instructions from a Master Craftsman
Edited by Barbara B. Stephan
By Kojiro Ikegami
Hardcover / Weatherhill / 148 pages / 7 1/2 x 10 1/8
ISBN 978-0-8348-0196-7 / June 1986

or look for Keith Smith's books in your library or see his website:

http://www.keithsmithbooks.com/

[Suppliers] Re: Plastic Spiral Binding or Coil Binding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (andy888) — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 22:19:09 GMT

Author: andy888
Post subject: Re: Plastic Spiral Binding or Coil Binding
Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:19 pm

spiral plastic binding is good.
---------
plastic machinery

[Printing] Re: Archival Printing medium.

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (andy888) — Sun, 20 Jun 2010 22:15:14 GMT

Author: andy888
Post subject: Re: Archival Printing medium.
Posted: Sun Jun 20, 2010 6:15 pm

laser printer printing quality is better
----
inkjet printer

[Bookbinding] Re: A Few Questions About Leather Journals

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Lyulf) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:59:48 GMT

Author: Lyulf
Post subject: Re: A Few Questions About Leather Journals
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:59 am

Thank you for the help. Can anyone recommend a good book on making journals with leather? or a good journal making/book binding book.

[Books] Re: Books on Bookbinding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ericcarter13) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:57:31 GMT

Author: ericcarter13
Post subject: Re: Books on Bookbinding
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:57 am

Book binding is an enjoyable hobby, I have made one from scratch (though not steam punk themed, something rather quite more personal and secretive). At the moment I am rebinding an old book, but this will not be themed as followed either, for the Norse theme fits better on the younger Edda.Bookbinding isn't particularly difficult, but one needs to be precise and focused.

[Printing] Re: Large Format Printers

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ericcarter13) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:52:03 GMT

Author: ericcarter13
Post subject: Re: Large Format Printers
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:52 am

One of my office mates has a GCC Elite XL 40n black and white laser printer that can print on 12" x 18" paper. I use it for 100% of my in-house (50% sized) check sets and only send out for full sized or color prints. It is 4 years old and still on its first toner cartridge. I find the reduced sized sets really handy and rarely make a full sized set for myself.

[Printing] Re: inkjet printer

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (ericcarter13) — Wed, 16 Jun 2010 12:49:48 GMT

Author: ericcarter13
Post subject: Re: inkjet printer
Posted: Wed Jun 16, 2010 8:49 am

An inkjet printer is a type of computer printer that reproduces a digital image by propelling variably-sized droplets of liquid material ink onto a page. Inkjet printers are the most common type of printer and range from small inexpensive consumer models to very large and expensive professional machines.

• Easy Photo Printing
• Long-lasting, True-to-life Photos
• Fast Printing & Data Transfer
• Easy Photo Sharing
• Print Directly to CD/DVDs
• Borderless Photo Printing
• HP Real Life Technologies

[Events and Meetings] Re: Now Online - The Bonefolder Volume 6, No. 2, Spring 2010

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (michellejane) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:52:16 GMT

Author: michellejane
Post subject: Re: Now Online - The Bonefolder Volume 6, No. 2, Spring 2010
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:52 pm

Provided information on "Now Online - The Bonefolder Volume 6, No. 2, Spring 2010" informative .After saw this discussion I searched about this and I found very inserting and positive view about this .I will try to download from above link as soon as possible.

[Printing] Re: Printing books to bind - best materials and method

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (michellejane) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:47:22 GMT

Author: michellejane
Post subject: Re: Printing books to bind - best materials and method
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:47 pm

I agree with jackhookss . This technique and method provides great assistance to those who have no knowledge about that and also for those who are new to this field.Description given nicely point to point and easy language so easy to understood.

[Bookbinding] Re: Chromium Tanned Leather

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (michellejane) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:42:48 GMT

Author: michellejane
Post subject: Re: Chromium Tanned Leather
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:42 pm

As per my knowledge In the case of insoles, outsoles, heel stiffeners and, toe stiffeners, veg tanned is considered the traditional and quality standard...exceeded in application only by synthetics such as celastic and fiberboard.With uppers, some vegetable tanned leathers are the choice for discriminating makers and consumers; but chrome tanned leathers tend to be what is most commonly employed. That said, very fine chrome tans are very fine indeed.

[Wanted] Re: Oversewing Machine and hand operated blocking machine

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (john100) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 22:32:18 GMT

Author: john100
Post subject: Re: Oversewing Machine and hand operated blocking machine
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 6:32 pm

I played with it a little last night and you're right about hand skiving, very difficult with it being so stretchy, but I had no problem putting it through my schar-fix - like butter, but I am a stickler for new blades all the time.

[Printing] Re: Large Format Printers

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (steeveherris) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 09:08:41 GMT

Author: steeveherris
Post subject: Re: Large Format Printers
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:08 am

Yes if you have a work of printing of your documents and a book for yours and feel that the quotations are really high, so the best option to buy a printer that proves to be fruitful for you and really low budget.

[Printing] Re: Printing onto a textblock via personal printer.

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (steeveherris) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 09:06:20 GMT

Author: steeveherris
Post subject: Re: Printing onto a textblock via personal printer.
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:06 am

I think it is quite difficult to print on to a text block via personal printer. It is quite odd to arrange it for printing. It sometimes gets hangs up and other problems of paper related too. So don prefer that.

[Printing] Re: Archival Printing medium.

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (steeveherris) — Tue, 15 Jun 2010 09:03:41 GMT

Author: steeveherris
Post subject: Re: Archival Printing medium.
Posted: Tue Jun 15, 2010 5:03 am

Selection of printer on the basics of many factors such us your requirement, choice, budget you have. So the best selection depends on you only. Select he perfect suitable for your work.

[Bookbinding] Re: A Few Questions About Leather Journals

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (brokenbooks) — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 09:14:27 GMT

Author: brokenbooks
Post subject: Re: A Few Questions About Leather Journals
Posted: Sun Jun 13, 2010 5:14 am

I would say that it was probably Goat. Given the flexibility and the cut it seems the most likely. You can order skins of that quality from Harmatans via www.talasonline.com or a company called Hewitts. If you can I would try and order a split-skin rather than full cut. This means that the leather come with a good portion of the pairing already done by machine and so can save a lot of time and heartache especially if your new to bookbinding. If it were me, I would try and use a calf for the thong rather than the goat as the goat can stretch quite a bit and may not work as well for that application. As well the contrast can be pleasing.

As far as the sewing structure, it looks to be an all-along stitch combined with a french-link. Alternating the style at every sewing station.

[Bookbinding] A Few Questions About Leather Journals

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Lyulf) — Sun, 13 Jun 2010 00:36:52 GMT

Author: Lyulf
Post subject: A Few Questions About Leather Journals
Posted: Sat Jun 12, 2010 8:36 pm

Although I have been a member for some time I have only recently begun bookbinding. I am trying to learn how to make journals like this one http://comfortableshoesstudio.blogspot. ... strap.html. I have a few questions though. What kind of leather is that? Where can I buy the leather? And My final question what kind of stitching is done to the leather?

[Bookbinding] Re: Miniature Books

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Adrienne Allen) — Sat, 12 Jun 2010 01:46:52 GMT

Author: Adrienne Allen
Post subject: Re: Miniature Books
Posted: Fri Jun 11, 2010 9:46 pm

I've got some fat linen thread which may do the job.
Thanks for the suggestion.

Adrienne

[Bookbinding] Re: Casing In, Ready Made Book Blocks

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (custard) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:22:34 GMT

Author: custard
Post subject: Re: Casing In, Ready Made Book Blocks
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 6:22 pm

admin wrote:the adhesive should still be evenly tacky, you can let it sit longer for paste than glue, you'll know when the paper stops "moving" that it took the right amount of moisture.

Thanks, your suggestion worked perfectly! I let it sit with a 50/50 PVA/Paste mix for about two minutes, and there's no creasing at all.

[Bookbinding] Re: Miniature Books

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Annied) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 07:01:40 GMT

Author: Annied
Post subject: Re: Miniature Books
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2010 3:01 am

Sounds an interesting project. I've never tried anything like this, but my first thought is to sew the sections together on cords and then lace the boards in. Boards when laced in are hard up against the joint, but the book still opens and shuts easily, so it would solve the hinge problem. You might have to improvise to find "cord" fine enough though.

[Bookbinding] Miniature Books

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Adrienne Allen) — Thu, 10 Jun 2010 02:36:01 GMT

Author: Adrienne Allen
Post subject: Miniature Books
Posted: Wed Jun 09, 2010 10:36 pm

For some reason I decided I would like to make some miniature books, 1:12 scale as standard for dolls house items.

Then I saw pictures of the books in the library of Queen Mary's Dollshouse at Windsor Palace in UK. They are very tiny and leather bound, made in early 20th century.

The problem is that the scale effect kicks in and most normal materials are too heavy but if you use light thin materials, the books are very fragile. The covers are reluctant to close if hinges are made to the usual proportions. My next attempt was to try to find a book on miniature books. The Peter and Donna Thomas book was helpful but no-on else has written much.

I think for a better class of sewn binding some strong japanese papers may do the job, but then I thought I'd like to print some text and pix as well.

Sigh!

Any thoughts out there?

Adrienne

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