Bookbinding

[Bookbinding] Bought on Ebay

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Tue, 06 Jan 2009 05:26:46 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Bought on Ebay
Posted: Tue Jan 06, 2009 1:26 am

I bought this CD on Ebay after contacting the seller and asking him to cease using the cover image, because it belongs to me and I did not authorize him or anyone else to use it for marketing purposes. The seller claims that he bought the image on a Clip art CD that was sold on Ebay. When I pressed the issue further and wanting to know who is selling my copyrighted image on Ebay, he stopped communicating.
This person is not only a cheat but also a liar as there are only seven titles on the CD instead of the eight advertised on the cover.

Well, I am here returning the favor and taking advantage of the fine print published together with the item on the Ebay site:

"FINE PRINT:
Files in our collections are in .pdf format, so you can easily view, copy, print, or share as you see fit."

Enjoy!
Denis

Follow the link below:

http://bookbinding.net/beginners/

[Bookbinding] Happy New Year

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (denis) — Wed, 31 Dec 2008 00:05:04 GMT

Author: denis
Post subject: Happy New Year
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 8:05 pm

Here we go again, another year bites the dust and it's time for a new one!
Thank you for participating to this Forum, without you it would not be, and I wish all of you a Happy Healthy and Prosperous New Year, may all your bookbinding projects run smoothly!

Denis

[Bookbinding] Re: hot stamping on foil

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 19:47:07 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: hot stamping on foil
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 3:47 pm

I don't know what type of foil you're using but they aren't too different. Check out this chart from Kwik-Print.

http://www.kwik-print.com/images/foil_guide.gif

[Bookbinding] Re: PVA

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (bospress) — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 13:42:06 GMT

Author: bospress
Post subject: Re: PVA
Posted: Tue Dec 30, 2008 9:42 am

Hi,
Wilsonart (Maker of laminate countertops) sells PVA. Does anyone know if this is chemically the same as bookbinding pva? If all PVA is acid free, it should be the same? I can get an MSDS, if that will help.

I'm not against using the real stuff (like Talas sells), but I use a lot of it, and it would be much cheaper if I could buy it from Wilsonart.

Thanks,
Bill

[Bookbinding] Re: hot stamping on foil

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Tue, 30 Dec 2008 03:09:18 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: Re: hot stamping on foil
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 11:09 pm

> That adhesive is activated by heat (usually 270 - 350 degrees depending on the foil type).

Ahhhh, that's an important difference! Following the gold-foil instructions, I was keeping at 250-260 degF, maybe that's the origin of my problems.

Thanks, thanks a lot!

Alessandro

[Bookbinding] Re: hot stamping on foil

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 19:50:29 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: hot stamping on foil
Posted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:50 pm

alexxx wrote:

In particular, anybody knows if I have to use the glaire on leather prior to applying the foil?

Alexxx,
No, you don't need to use glaire for hot stamp foil. Glaire works as an adhesive for gold foil. Hot stamp foil comes with its own adhesive (that thin white layer on the back). That adhesive is activated by heat (usually 270 - 350 degrees depending on the foil type). You also shouldn't have to "fix" or seal the finished product.

[Bookbinding] Re: hot stamping on foil

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Mon, 29 Dec 2008 02:22:41 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: Re: hot stamping on foil
Posted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 10:22 pm

In particular, anybody knows if I have to use the glaire on leather prior to applying the foil?

Alessandro

[Bookbinding] Re: hot stamping on foil

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (denis) — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 03:28:23 GMT

Author: denis
Post subject: Re: hot stamping on foil
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:28 pm

"but I've yet to find a correct combination of pressure/temperature"

don't forget "time", try a lower temp but press the tool a longer time, ore vice versa, higher temp, less time. The combo should be pressure/temperature/time

[Bookbinding] hot stamping on foil

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Sun, 28 Dec 2008 03:08:21 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: hot stamping on foil
Posted: Sat Dec 27, 2008 11:08 pm

hi,
I decided to try to learn hot stamping on leather, so I bought a type holder, a font set, and hot stamping foils (from Talas).
I am trying to follow the technique described at Eden Workshops (http://www.edenworkshops.com/Gilding_-_ ... ather.html), even if it is for the gold leaf and not for the foil.
At the moment, I find it very difficult to obtain good results, the letters I get are almost a full blotch of color, while if I lower the temperature or pressure the letters are incomplete.
I imagine it's just a matter of practice, but I've yet to find a correct combination of pressure/temperature.

Just to know I'm not on the wrong road, using this kind of foil (http://apps.webcreate.com/ecom/catalog/ ... ctID=23513) the same basic rules as for gold leaf apply? Or I've to treat it differently? I didnt find a tutorial about it.

Thanks for your help, I'm a bit lost...

alessandro

[Bookbinding] Re: rolled manuscripts ?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Clafoun) — Mon, 22 Dec 2008 19:56:22 GMT

Author: Clafoun
Post subject: Re: rolled manuscripts ?
Posted: Mon Dec 22, 2008 3:56 pm

I'm not sure exactly what they are called.. spindles I think.. but I'm not sure. But, you can purchase them from this website:

http://www.compassionatexpression.com/

[Bookbinding] Re: Venetian endpapers

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Sun, 21 Dec 2008 16:59:43 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: Venetian endpapers
Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 12:59 pm

Venetian paper is a floral or geometric printed design traditionally done in a repeat pattern, used as far back as the 18th century.

[Bookbinding] rolled manuscripts ?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (chihiro) — Sun, 21 Dec 2008 13:45:20 GMT

Author: chihiro
Post subject: rolled manuscripts ?
Posted: Sun Dec 21, 2008 9:45 am

hi,
could you please tell me how you call that wooden thing on which is rolled the book,please?

any ideas where I can buy similar thing,please?

[Bookbinding] Venetian endpapers

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Adele) — Thu, 18 Dec 2008 00:00:02 GMT

Author: Adele
Post subject: Venetian endpapers
Posted: Wed Dec 17, 2008 8:00 pm

Today someone asked me if I could do "Venetian endpapers". Probably yes, but I don't know what they are - I've never heard of the term before. Can anyone enlighten me?
Thanks.
Adele

[Bookbinding] Re: Calf

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (edenworkshops) — Sun, 14 Dec 2008 11:11:46 GMT

Author: edenworkshops
Post subject: Re: Calf
Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:11 am

Hello

Hewits book calf is advertised as being 0.8mm substance, so if yours is 0.66mm it is only a shade lighter in weight than normal.

Whether you need to pare it or not depends rather on what binding style you proposed to undertake.

I personaly did the minimum amount of paring, rather than pare the leather I would sand the boards to reduce their thickness.

Neither did I pare the corners, relying instead on an accurate bevelled cut.

Paring around the headcap may be more important, on most styles of leather binding you do need to reduce the thickness of the leather around the headcap, this is something that would be covered in any good book on bookbinding.

Happy Christmas

Richard

[Bookbinding] Calf

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (rlake) — Sun, 14 Dec 2008 09:58:02 GMT

Author: rlake
Post subject: Calf
Posted: Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:58 am

I am about to cover a book in calf for the first time. The piece I have is a fragment, and it seems quite thin - about the .6mm thickness commonly used for goatskins. I would be grateful for any tips, and in particular would apperceate views on whether the skin needs to be pared.

[Bookbinding] Re: Latches...

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (permtilperm) — Fri, 12 Dec 2008 04:36:57 GMT

Author: permtilperm
Post subject: Re: Latches...
Posted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 12:36 am

Try http://www.umei.com/wood-box-hardware.htm

or

http://www.ohiotravelbag.com/index.html

[Administration] Re: Black dot?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (denis) — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 09:17:01 GMT

Author: denis
Post subject: Re: Black dot?
Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:17 am

yes, this is in the subsilver2 skin icons, not really sure but I believe it indicates that you have read an answer to your post.
D.

[Administration] Re: Black dot?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Thu, 11 Dec 2008 07:52:37 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: Black dot?
Posted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:52 am

Sure.

Here's one. It could mean that I've replied to a post in that subject recently, but I'm not sure.

[Administration] Re: Black dot?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Wed, 10 Dec 2008 16:26:37 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: Black dot?
Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2008 12:26 pm

Really not sure what you are referring to, can you take a screen shot and post it?
D.

[Bookbinding] Re: Help identifying print tool?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (rapapa) — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 14:55:15 GMT

Author: rapapa
Post subject: Re: Help identifying print tool?
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 10:55 am

benjclark wrote:

I suppose you could use it as an embossing tool. It started life as a stapler. See: http://www.officemuseum.com/staplers.htm. The office museum is fascinating, and a bookmarked reference on my computer at work (where I'm a museum curator).

Best,
benjamin clark

Thank you for your expertise Benjamin (one of my son's name BTW), the mystery is finally solved.
Regards
Ralph

[Administration] Black dot?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 12:53:30 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Black dot?
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 8:53 am

Denis,

What's the icon with the black dot on the left hand side?

[Bookbinding] Re: Help identifying print tool?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (benjclark) — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 09:55:40 GMT

Author: benjclark
Post subject: Re: Help identifying print tool?
Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2008 5:55 am

I suppose you could use it as an embossing tool. It started life as a stapler. See: http://www.officemuseum.com/staplers.htm. The office museum is fascinating, and a bookmarked reference on my computer at work (where I'm a museum curator).

Best,
benjamin clark

[Bookbinding] Re: signature binding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (nermander) — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 02:13:37 GMT

Author: nermander
Post subject: Re: signature binding
Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:13 pm

If you can make a PDF of your book there are several tools out there to to the sigantures for you.

Bookbinder has been mentioned here before
http://www.quantumelephant.co.uk/bookbi ... inder.html

There are some others, but they are not as easy to use.

[Bookbinding] Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (nermander) — Sun, 07 Dec 2008 02:09:48 GMT

Author: nermander
Post subject: Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration
Posted: Sat Dec 06, 2008 10:09 pm

New printer today is almost no cost at all, and look at the datasheets for some printers you will notice that many of them use pigment ink. And I know there are printers that can take both pigment ink and dye ink.

[Bookbinding] Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 17:03:01 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:03 pm

Quote:

you suggest inkjet with pigment ink above the laser I'm currently using, right?

I'm not a printing expert but as I understand it, pigment ink will work, but check with a local print shop (not some place like Kinkos - they don't use good ink) and ask about having them print the text; you might find it cheaper than buying a new printer, pigment ink and ph neutral paper yourself - not to mention all the time you'll be spending in printing a collating all those copies.

[Bookbinding] Re: author, title on cover

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 16:47:29 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: author, title on cover
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 12:47 pm

Yes, they can be used with hand tools. I do it all the time for decorations. They are sold on eBay all the time but just use Google and search for "hot stamp foil". You find lots of it available. Two reputable dealers that I use are http://www.talasonline.com (search for same as above) & http://www.kwik-print.com/ (click on supplies and then foil).

Dan
Bookbums Bindery
Ish Kabibble Books

[Bookbinding] End sheets - Accordion

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (permtilperm) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 12:24:07 GMT

Author: permtilperm
Post subject: End sheets - Accordion
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 8:24 am

I searched the net for information about end sheets thats called "Accordion-type" - but without success.
I have seen written description in some old books - but the illustrations are scarce or missing.

However - I have tried to follow the instructions and achieved a construction as shown in this image:

http://bookbindingforum.com/forum/gallery2.php?g2_itemId=998&g2_imageViewsIndex=0

The only pasting is between A and C1.
A1 goes towards text block, A2 is waste paper to be torn , and C2 pasted to board. Thread indicates sewing fold.

I've heard that this contruction is relatively strong and does not apply great stress to the pasted parts - board, textblock and coloured sheets.

I cannot tell - never tried it, but I presume someone have opinions on this topic in special - and on end sheets in general.

[Bookbinding] Re: signature binding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (stampebyhand) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 05:04:12 GMT

Author: stampebyhand
Post subject: Re: signature binding
Posted: Thu Dec 04, 2008 1:04 am

Thank you very much for your reply. I will go ahead now! The first thing now I have to figure out
is the printing of the signatures in the right order...that will take some serious brain excercise!!!!
Best regards

[Bookbinding] Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 03:15:44 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:15 pm

Well, to answer the "lasting" question, I only print/bind books for myself (or a few friends), so I print works I want to read, more or less immediately.
Then the books go to live in my bookshelves, and stay with me.
But to put so much work into something that vanishes in a few years makes me uneasy.
I don't have children, so my idea of "lasting" is more or less my remaining lifespan (~ 40-50 years, if all goes well

Joking aside, from what you say I could find Ph-neutral paper easily, but you suggest inkjet with pigment ink above the laser I'm currently using, right?

thanks for your help...

alessandro

[Bookbinding] Re: author, title on cover

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 03:06:28 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: Re: author, title on cover
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 11:06 pm

kitekook wrote:

Most of us who do this as a profession have some sort of hot stamp machine and type font. With a hot stamp machine you use foils. The foils can be up to 23 carat gold but cheaper carat ratings are available (and cheaper). The advantage of foils is that it comes in a wide assortment of colors so you can put black text on gold cloth, white text on blue paper, etc.

Thank you for the reply!
If those foils can also be used with hand tools, I'd really like to try them. Can you suggest me where to find them?

thank you

alessandro

[Bookbinding] Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (nermander) — Thu, 04 Dec 2008 02:58:22 GMT

Author: nermander
Post subject: Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 10:58 pm

kitekook wrote:

Ink jet printer ink has a different problem - it's not indelible. Moisture of any sort, even the humidity in our houses will, in time, blur the print. Heavier moisture will make it run.

There are two types of inket ink: Dye based and pigment based.

Pigment based ink is not very likely to blur by moisture.

I think pigment ink is the best solution for home printing.

But the main questions are, of course, how long do you want the book to "last" and what is you defintion of "lasting"?

Is it ok if the pages turn yellow and the ink turns grey after 15 years? Or do you want your books to look "as new" even after 50 years?

[Bookbinding] Re: signature binding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 16:40:41 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: signature binding
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:40 pm

You can definitely create signatures with only two or three sheets. It's very common at the beginning or end of most text blocks out there. Most books don't have a number of pages that is perfectly divided by 8 or 12 so those last few (or first few) pages are usually smaller.

Small size linen thread is available. I would say a size 30 would do fine. Any smaller than that and you run the real risk of the thread tearing through your paper as you pull it taut.

Dan
Bumbums Bindery
Ish Kabibble Books

[Bookbinding] Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 16:34:07 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: self-printed book, ink deterioration
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:34 pm

Alessandro,

The question you have to ask yourself is: How long do you want the book to last.

In our modern time, printed documents, via a home computer printer are not expected to have any value after 10 or so years. There are problems with both the paper you are using an both types of the main home printers that are mainly used in the public.

With paper the evil is the ph factor of the paper. To have it stay at least near the color your paper started with you have to use an ph neutral paper. Most paper has too high of an acid content (due to bleaching or coloring). PH neutral paper is out there and not too much difference in price.

Basic printers, both laser and ink jet have their own problems. Laser printer basically use a plastic additive mixed in with the ink to adhere it to the paper using 400 to 600 degree (F) heat. Because it is just adhered to the paper and stays on the surface, it will over time rub off. Ink jet printer ink has a different problem - it's not indelible. Moisture of any sort, even the humidity in our houses will, in time, blur the print. Heavier moisture will make it run.

There is special ink out there, called "printer's ink" that will last. I've never looked in to it's price since I only do binding, not printing. There is a area here on this forum just for printing and I'm sure you can find your answers there about printer's ink.

Neither of these printing problem will cause you much of an issue if you are just printing titles and author names for the case. All you have to do is cover them with a good fixative that seals them (not a reasonable option for the text inside the book). Fixatives can be found at any art or craft store.

Dan
Bookbums Bindery
Ish Kabibble Books

[Bookbinding] Re: author, title on cover

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 16:17:59 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: author, title on cover
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 12:17 pm

Alessandro,

You can use a good quality paper run through your printer if you'd like. Just attach it with a light layer of PVA. Bookcloth is another option. There is a type out there that can also be run through your printer. Both paper and cloth, like leather, can be gilding.

Most of us who do this as a profession have some sort of hot stamp machine and type font. With a hot stamp machine you use foils. The foils can be up to 23 carat gold but cheaper carat ratings are available (and cheaper). The advantage of foils is that it comes in a wide assortment of colors so you can put black text on gold cloth, white text on blue paper, etc.

Dan

[Bookbinding] author, title on cover

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 08:51:57 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: author, title on cover
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 4:51 am

Here I am again,
new to bookbinding and with another question:

how do you write the Author / Title on the cover and on the spine?

I know that - for leather - I should go for gold gilding - expensive and difficult but I like it and I could try it. However, which are the alternatives?
Moreover, what to do on the cover, if you used paper on it?

thank you for any info...

alessandro

[Bookbinding] self-printed book, ink deterioration

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (alexxx) — Wed, 03 Dec 2008 07:35:32 GMT

Author: alexxx
Post subject: self-printed book, ink deterioration
Posted: Wed Dec 03, 2008 3:35 am

Hi everybody,
I'm fairly new at bookbinding, but after finishing ~10 books I'm really appreciating this, and it's becoming a real passion.

I usually start from PDF's which I format in signatures, and then print them on a laser printer.

A doubt that I had recently concerns the duration of my prints, referring both to the paper and - mostly - to the laser ink. Do you know if I have to worry about it?

Thank you!

alessandro

[Bookbinding] signature binding

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (stampebyhand) — Thu, 27 Nov 2008 08:29:29 GMT

Author: stampebyhand
Post subject: signature binding
Posted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 4:29 am

Hi,
I am making a poetry book, which is quite thin, ideally it maybe should be made as a booklet
(there will be 100 printed like booklets but 10 should be handsewn),
but I would like to make it in signatures. My question is: Since it has only about 16 sheet there
would only be 4 signatures, can I sew each signature with only 2 or 3 sheet? Is there anything
I must think of, like thinner thread or so?
Thanks in advance for all suggestions.

[Bookbinding] Re: Help identifying print tool?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (Clafoun) — Tue, 25 Nov 2008 10:07:18 GMT

Author: Clafoun
Post subject: Re: Help identifying print tool?
Posted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 6:07 am

To me it looks like some sort of single dye embossing tool.

Looks like the bottom side is slotted to hold a die in place from moving, and then some sort of top dye would be struck by the spring punch.

[For sale] Re: Frank Weisner Lying Press and Plough

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (sheimann) — Mon, 24 Nov 2008 21:25:07 GMT

Author: sheimann
Post subject: Re: Frank Weisner Lying Press and Plough
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 5:25 pm

Julia,
Your add is a bit old but I was wondering if you still have the Wiesner equipment for sale? If so I am very interested in it.
Thanks
Sharon Heimann
sheimann@ez2.net

[Bookbinding] Help identifying print tool?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (rapapa) — Mon, 24 Nov 2008 19:38:44 GMT

Author: rapapa
Post subject: Help identifying print tool?
Posted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 3:38 pm

I have a tool that may be associated with book binding. Can any one please confirm if this is correct and what it is called? It seems to be made of cast iron and measures about 15cm long by 10cm tall. The arm is hinged and has a spring loaded press at one end. I came across it in a box full of pen nibs.

Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks

[Wanted] Re: Binding Equipment

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (kitekook) — Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:28:48 GMT

Author: kitekook
Post subject: Re: Binding Equipment
Posted: Wed Nov 19, 2008 7:28 am

Gaylord Brothers Library Supply sells a very simple but extremely efficient press in two sizes with boards. They are based on a pipe vise type system and are extremely easy to adjust for 1 to 5 books at a time. I have two of these and 3 cast iron presses. I use these more because of the ease of adjustment and you don't have to extend the legs and then add cribbing to get more than one book in at a time.

http://www.gaylordmart.com/adblock.asp?abid=12522&sid=50D72722B1004AA98647919081B851&search_by=desc&search_for=book%20press&mpc=WW

http://www.gaylordmart.com/adblock.asp?abid=287&sid=50D72722B1004AA98647919081B851&search_by=desc&search_for=book%20press&mpc=WW

Dan
Ish Kabibble Books

[Bookbinding] Re: Removing hot melt adhesive

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (edenworkshops) — Tue, 18 Nov 2008 05:15:16 GMT

Author: edenworkshops
Post subject: Re: Removing hot melt adhesive
Posted: Tue Nov 18, 2008 1:15 am

The only method we used was aimed at getting rid of most of the hot melt, not all of it.

We just heated up an old redundant pallet and gradualy removed the hot melt by pushing the pallet along the back of the book.

Not the nicest material to deal with.

Richard

[Bookbinding] Re: Removing hot melt adhesive

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (permtilperm) — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:08:50 GMT

Author: permtilperm
Post subject: Re: Removing hot melt adhesive
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 11:08 am

I agree with you.
I didn't believe that there were easy ways to remove hot melt - but I had to ask.

However I felt that I had to remove it because it was a relatively thick and very soft layer. So soft that it didn't support the mass of the text block and the spine had started to be concave. The original spine paper backing was also very soft/weak.

I'm aware of the risk of damaging the signature folds and or sewing - so I removed most of the adhesive by squezeesing it away with a hot iron, and at the same time rounding the spine again - and put on a much stiffer spine backing with a mixture PVA/paste. Probably this could have been put on using the remaing hot melt - but I feel more comfortable doing it with PVA/paste.

Result seems ok.

Thanks for your reply and opinions.

[Bookbinding] Re: Removing hot melt adhesive

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:30:09 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: Removing hot melt adhesive
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 5:30 am

Yes and why not leave it there, sometimes you can reactivate the glue with a heating iron and revive it so it stick again to the paper, you can sometimes obtain good results and reshape the spine to fit. Trying to remove the glue entirely will result in loss paper at the fold and weaken the signature, so it's best to leave it alone and work with what you are dealt with rather than add new problems than the one your are faced with.

[Bookbinding] Removing hot melt adhesive

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (permtilperm) — Mon, 17 Nov 2008 04:29:43 GMT

Author: permtilperm
Post subject: Removing hot melt adhesive
Posted: Mon Nov 17, 2008 12:29 am

Anyone that have great ideas about how to remove hot melt adhesive from sewn spines ?

I have had a couple of books for repair - and found it neccessary to remove the existing hot melt from the spine. Preferably not making any damage to the sewing of the signatures.
I tried different methods.

Heating:
A: Hair dryer to get it soft and peel or wipe it off. This came out to be a very sticky mess!!
B: Ironing with "silicone paper" in between to squeeze most of it out to the side. Not so bad result - but still a lot of work to remove the remaining.

Freezing:
Put the book in a plastic bag and cool it down to -30 degr C. Then "crack" the spine signature by signature. But the adhesive remain sticking too much to the sewing threads.

I would like to keep the sewn signatures - secondary solution is to cut it away and rebind as "perfect binding", but I really don't like that so much.

Good ideas ??

[Bookbinding] Re: Any kind of starch ?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (permtilperm) — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 12:38:28 GMT

Author: permtilperm
Post subject: Re: Any kind of starch ?
Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 8:38 am

yes - we'll probably only see it in cooking books !

[Bookbinding] Re: Any kind of starch ?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 10:09:58 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: Any kind of starch ?
Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:09 am

So is it fair to conclude that potato starch is best left to the culinary trade?

[Bookbinding] Re: A question about binding with an Elk hide

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 10:05:59 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: A question about binding with an Elk hide
Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 6:05 am

without knowing if the hide was vegetable or chrome tanned, it is difficult to give advice, way to find out, cut a sliver of the leather, burn with a match over with paper, smear the ashes, if black the leather is probably vegetable, if green, chrome tanned. If vegetable tanned, nourishing the leather with paste is a good idea, if chrome only use pva. Of course paring helps a lot...

[Bookbinding] Re: Colouring Book edges.

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (admin) — Fri, 14 Nov 2008 09:57:25 GMT

Author: admin
Post subject: Re: Colouring Book edges.
Posted: Fri Nov 14, 2008 5:57 am

And of course, you can marble the edges, just as you would on paper....

[Bookbinding] Re: Any kind of starch ?

info@bookbindingforum.com/forum (permtilperm) — Tue, 11 Nov 2008 08:53:06 GMT

Author: permtilperm
Post subject: Re: Any kind of starch ?
Posted: Tue Nov 11, 2008 4:53 am

Adhesion properties for potato starch is not good enough!

It works well on most paper and boards.
The general impression to me is that on leather, some book cloths or "Rexine"/"Granitol" and other likes, it's not sticky enough during work. That means a lot of extra nipping, drying, pressing - and it also seems to have poor adhesion when dry on these materials.

Well - not a "scientific research" - but. . . . .

Anyhow:
It was easy to dilute and boil without having any lumps at all, and very nice to apply and work with on paper/boards.
However it seems that ordinary wheat paste is much more versatile (not a great surprise) - and there are also advantages of reducing number of types "in stock" !

But I had to try !!